Tom Colicchio’s Asparagus Soup With Morel Custard

I have a lot of time for Tom Colicchio. He’s sharp-witted, his politics align with mine, and those blue eyes… Oh: and he cooks! This is a showstopper of a spring first course from his book, Think Like a Chef. The book uses a clever pedagogical device: starting with a combination of ingredients that get…

Roman Spring Soup

In a wealthy neighbourhood in our town, there’s a row of food stores known informally as The Thieves: a fishmonger, a butcher, a patisserie, and a greengrocer. The Thieves source, display and price their wares as though they were diamonds. Unfortunately, the quality is amazing and, for many items, they’re the only game in town….

Our Long Pour: “Rhubarb Spritz”

It’s reassuring, in these weird, muted days, to see rhubarb make its way to the greengrocer. Electric pink and with a sour jolt to match, it’s the rowdy and flamboyant gay friend of staid asparagus and flighty ramps. So, I was excited to find this cocktail. It starts with a quick but relatively complex syrup….

In Braise of Spring

One of the best things you can do as a cook is to break out of thinking in terms of four seasons. Not to say that you shouldn’t cook seasonally: it’s a gift to have seasons, and a joy to adapt our cooking as they change. What I’m suggesting is to be mindful of the…