Tom Colicchio’s Asparagus Soup With Morel Custard

I have a lot of time for Tom Colicchio. He’s sharp-witted, his politics align with mine, and those blue eyes… Oh: and he cooks! This is a showstopper of a spring first course from his book, Think Like a Chef. The book uses a clever pedagogical device: starting with a combination of ingredients that get…

Roman Spring Soup

In a wealthy neighbourhood in our town, there’s a row of food stores known informally as The Thieves: a fishmonger, a butcher, a patisserie, and a greengrocer. The Thieves source, display and price their wares as though they were diamonds. Unfortunately, the quality is amazing and, for many items, they’re the only game in town….

Building a Better Ball: Thai and Vietnamese Noodle Soups

At any given waking moment, and certainly in my dreams, I want a bowl of Thai or Vietnamese noodle soup. It’s my desert island dish and my lost on the tundra dish. I want it when I’m well, and need it when I’m not. Deeply savoury-sweet, lifted by lime, electric with zaps of chili heat,…