From Zero to Hero: Ragù Bolognese

A few days ago, I flagged quiche as perhaps the most abused French dish in North America. When it comes to Italian food, you could argue that pizza wears that crown. Certainly, there’s more bad pizza out there than almost any other food, full stop. But there’s also been a pizza renaissance, and it’s possible…

Better Cooking Through Chemistry: R2D2 Hollandaise

Oh, Molecular gastronomy. You have so much to answer for. So many starry-eyed home cooks and would-be Ferran Adrià’s, myself included circa 2012, loading up on syringes and sodium alginate. Subjecting friends and family to trembling mango spheres and cucumber juice “caviar.” Making sauces with too much xanthan gum and not enough love. But… time…