Maman Cass-oulet

To me, cassoulet – a rich, crusty stew of white beans and meat – is the grand-est of the grands plats of French winter cooking. It’s also an opportunity (if you want to take it) to stretch the concept of “homemade” to its extremes, since it  can happily accommodate any number of home-cured- and confited bits of animal protein….

Little Bo Ssam

We miss having people over. We mostly miss simply being with our friends, but we also keenly feel the loss of the ability to show affection in the manner we’re most accustomed to: sharing food and drink that we’ve made with them in mind. True, we’ve porch-dropped drinks and safe-distanced lasagne to friends on our…

Building a Better Ball: Thai and Vietnamese Noodle Soups

At any given waking moment, and certainly in my dreams, I want a bowl of Thai or Vietnamese noodle soup. It’s my desert island dish and my lost on the tundra dish. I want it when I’m well, and need it when I’m not. Deeply savoury-sweet, lifted by lime, electric with zaps of chili heat,…