Maman Cass-oulet

To me, cassoulet – a rich, crusty stew of white beans and meat – is the grand-est of the grands plats of French winter cooking. It’s also an opportunity (if you want to take it) to stretch the concept of “homemade” to its extremes, since it  can happily accommodate any number of home-cured- and confited bits of animal protein….

The Keller Quiche

Thomas Keller’s Bouchon cookbook is a masterpiece in the bistro cooking genre. I’ve owned it since it came out in 2004, and have probably cooked over three quarters of the recipes. None has given me more trouble or more pleasure than the quiche. If your experience with quiche is one of slightly rubbery egg-and-cheese-dominated custards…