Maman Cass-oulet

To me, cassoulet – a rich, crusty stew of white beans and meat – is the grand-est of the grands plats of French winter cooking. It’s also an opportunity (if you want to take it) to stretch the concept of “homemade” to its extremes, since it  can happily accommodate any number of home-cured- and confited bits of animal protein….

Tender Ducky, You’re The One

We didn’t used to serve much duck on Our Long Table. See, one of the owners of said table laboured for years under the misapprehension that ducks were like swans in that they mate for life. Graphically disabused of that romantic notion (in an incident best forgotten), David is making up for lost time, and…

In Braise of Spring

One of the best things you can do as a cook is to break out of thinking in terms of four seasons. Not to say that you shouldn’t cook seasonally: it’s a gift to have seasons, and a joy to adapt our cooking as they change. What I’m suggesting is to be mindful of the…