Maman Cass-oulet

To me, cassoulet – a rich, crusty stew of white beans and meat – is the grand-est of the grands plats of French winter cooking. It’s also an opportunity (if you want to take it) to stretch the concept of “homemade” to its extremes, since it  can happily accommodate any number of home-cured- and confited bits of animal protein….

The Beans Talk

I didn’t grow up with dried beans. Fresh-picked yellow summer wax beans with sautéed onions and hot, rich sour cream and black pepper, yes. Canned green beans, yep (it was the ’70s). Kidney beans, also canned, in chilli… uh-huh. And canned chickpeas in salads, yes (though not until the ’80s, on a salad bar, next…