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  • Maman Cass-oulet
    To me, cassoulet – a rich, crusty stew of white beans and meat – is the grand-est of the grands plats of French winter cooking. It’s also an opportunity (if you want to take it) to stretch the concept of “homemade” to its extremes, since it  can happily accommodate any number of home-cured- and confited bits of animal protein. In any event, it’s the quintessential home-cooked French dish: indeed, one French authority is supposed to have insisted that it shouldn’t be a restaurant dish under any circumstances. As is the case with all iconic French dishes, one makes pronouncements about authenticity at one’s peril….
  • Our Long Pour: “Tamara in a Green Bugatti”
    Not everyone wants a bar stocked with a dozen bottles of obscure bitters and tinctures, so we always think twice before posting a drink that risks leading you in that direction. That said: we think this drink alone merits the purchase of a bottle of Scrappy’s Lavender Bitters. If you like dry, herbal-floral aromas alongside tart lemon and cool gin flavours, you’ll love this one. It was a hit at a recent dinner party. The drink has a wonderful backstory, having been named after a painting titled “Autoportrait (Tamara in a Green Bugatti).” Wikipedia notes that this “is a self-portrait…

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