In Braise of Spring

One of the best things you can do as a cook is to break out of thinking in terms of four seasons. Not to say that you shouldn’t cook seasonally: it’s a gift to have seasons, and a joy to adapt our cooking as they change. What I’m suggesting is to be mindful of the…

Our Long Pour: Cardamom and Mint Cocktail

Not much of a name, but this is an absolutely delicious drink. It hits all of our buttons… sweet and sour, herbal and spicy, with the freshness of gin drawn out with the mellowness of Lillet Blanc. Keys to success here are to muddle the mint and cardamom with granulated sugar to help break them…

Better Cooking Through Chemistry: R2D2 Hollandaise

Oh, Molecular gastronomy. You have so much to answer for. So many starry-eyed home cooks and would-be Ferran AdriĆ ’s, myself included circa 2012, loading up on syringes and sodium alginate. Subjecting friends and family to trembling mango spheres and cucumber juice “caviar.” Making sauces with too much xanthan gum and not enough love. But… time…

Building a Better Ball: Thai and Vietnamese Noodle Soups

At any given waking moment, and certainly in my dreams, I want a bowl of Thai or Vietnamese noodle soup. It’s my desert island dish and my lost on the tundra dish. I want it when I’m well, and need it when I’m not. Deeply savoury-sweet, lifted by lime, electric with zaps of chili heat,…